With proper installation, an artificial lawn requires no regular maintenance apart from an occasional spray to keep it clean.[1] The installation itself can be intense, especially for a large lawn, so recruit a few strong friends to help with the process. Even though upkeep is significantly reduced, occasional care is needed to maintain aesthetics and longevity. Despite the intensive setup, the long-term convenience of reduced maintenance makes artificial lawns an attractive choice, prompting users to consider trade-offs between installation effort and ongoing ease.
Things You Should Know
- Remove any weeds with weed killer, then use a rototiller to remove the top layer of soil to start with a clean slate.
- Install a waterproof lawn border along the edges of the area, and lay down a weed barrier. Then, spread a base material like crushed rock or gravel.
- Roll out the turf and use a carpet cutter to trim it to shape. Join the edges with seaming material or tape. Then, fasten the perimeter with stakes or edging.
Preparing the Area
-
Plan your drainage. Installations over well-draining soil should have few issues with drainage, as the artificial grass should be permeable to water, and the aggregate base described below provides an additional drainage layer. If you are installing the lawn over poorly-draining soil or a hard surface such as concrete, take the following precautions:
- If there is no drain near the lawn, install a drainage system before you continue.
- If your area only experiences light rainfall, it may be enough to leave small drainage gaps every 6" (15 cm) around the perimeter.[5]
Spray the areas with a weed killer. For any existing vegetation (grass and weeds) in the area where you want to lay your turf, start by spraying with Round-Up or a similar product to kill all of the vegetation in the area. Do this at least two weeks before you start your project to give it time to work and kill off all of the vegetation in the area. This will help to ensure that all of the plant material is dead down to the roots.
Remove the top level of soil. If installing the lawn over soil, dig up the top 3 or 4 inches (7.5–10 centimeters) of sod to make room for the new base.[2] You can use a small rototiller to help you dig up the lawn and break up the soil. Remove all existing grass and other plants, or they may create an uneven surface after they die.[3]- Let rain-soaked soil dry for a few days before you excavate, to prevent slumping.
- While the remaining surface doesn't need to be perfectly graded, walk over it or use a hand tamp to compact any obviously loose soil. A slight slope is recommended to improve drainage.
-
Install a border. Install a waterproof border along the perimeter if one is not already present, in order to keep the lawn from slumping or separating over time. A plastic bender board is a common, effective option.- If you're interested in a more involved overhaul, you can pour a concrete curb around the area instead.
- Make sure the border won't protrude above the grass level, or it may inhibit drainage.
Add a weed barrier (optional). If you are concerned about weeds growing through your artificial grass, lay out a geotextile barrier at the bottom of the excavated area.[6] This may also help deter gophers and earthworms from digging through your synthetic turf.- Keep in mind that a geotextile barrier is a tightly woven, fairly heavy weed blocker. You can purchase one from an artificial turf supplier, at a true nursery or garden center, or from a landscape and irrigation supply business. A geotextile barrier is not the same thing as a weed blocker that you might buy from a home improvement store.
- You may install this over the base material instead.
- If you have a major rodent issue, consider a layer of rodent wire as well.
- Contact a professional rodent and pest control business for help to remove rodents. If left alone, rodents will wreak havoc on your artificial lawn.
